Friday, September 29, 2006

Chaing Mai trek - Day one

This morning we headed off for a two day trek into the hill tribes of Chaing Mai. Were picked up by a ute with a couple of bench seats and a roof over the tray; what they commonly call a truck, in Chaing Mai.

We pilled in the back and set off. An Irish couple were the first ones to join us, followed by two English blokes, an Israeli lady, and a Russian immigrant to America, who is currently living and working in India.

It was quite a group, and were were nicely packed into the back of this truck, when we stopped to pick up another person. I mentioned to the driver that I really didnt think we could fit another body in, and he assured me we could, just as 4 extras victims rounded the corner, intent on joining our cosy group.

We all laughed nervously and consoled each other that it was all part of the experience as we squished a little bit further down the bench seats. Our new comers were quickly introduced and every one was soon swapping travel stories.

Our guide, was also enjoying the ride in the back with us and keeping us all entertained with his quick wit about tourists. He was quite an extraordinary man. He not only spoke English and Thai but also Hebrew - and chatted quite happily with our jewish component (3 of our clan were jewish).

After a 1/2 hour drive we arrived at a elephant camp and squeezed our swetty selves apart from each other and unloaded to wait for our elephants to arrive.

The elephant ride was a hoot. Luke got to ride on the elephants neck like a Mahout (young boy who is given an young elephant to care for and taught how to tame it. He will spend his entire life in this role).

As we rode around there were these raised platforms that the mahout stopped at so we could buy banana's and sugar cane for the elephants. I couldnt resist. Everytime the elephant would hear the plastic bag crinkle he would stick his trunk up for a snack, taking whole hands of banana's at a time with his sticky nose.

Once we had taken our photos and said goodbye to the elephants we headed off to the base of the mountains to start our trek. After a quick lunch our guide lead us off into the jungle. I had to laugh when i saw the track we were to take!!! It was a small muddy path through such dense forest - little more than a goat track. A little way into the trek Luke found himself a large walking stick - It was noted by a few of the other team members as being a "mighty impressive stick", and so Luke took up the challenge of precurring a walking stick for each of the team members.

This became a running theme in conversation throughout our time... and many times there were comments on what a "great kid" Luke was. (Jordan was pretending to be invisible - as he does - and Im not sure anyone even noticed him - just jokes!)

We walked for about half an hour before we came to a stream. There was a log spanning the divide and we were instucted to sling our legs over each side and using our hands, pull ourselves along, in order to cross! It sounded easy enough but i found it close to impossible. Combining the need to hand on as hard as i could with my thighs so i wouldnt go off balance with my pack on, and the need to lift myself off the log with my arms so i could shuffle my bum just a few inches forward each time was quite a strain.... by the end my arms had given up the ghost, and I wasnt sure i was going to make it the last couple of feet.

Well obviously I did make it, and we set off again up the mountain. After 2 hours of some serious climbing, where i was really beginning to wonder what was suppose to be fun about this little adventure, we arrived at the top. We stopped at a small village and the boys practiced sling shot with the others, and we shared around the very culturally oriented pack of potato chips that we had brought along - much to the surprise and delight of the nationals.

Once we were on our way again it was much easier going. There were a few more hills but it was mostly flat walking for another 2 hours before we reached our goal for the night - a Karen village - where we were greated by a few giggling children who ran ahead of us to tell the rest of the tribe of our arrival.

The village was made up of a few raised, bamboo houses, cropping land, small structures that they use for cooking, and some out houses. We quickly met the local dogs, pigs and chickens who all free ranged around the property.

For dinner we had some of the best food we have had so far.... tofu and bean shoots, chicken and potato curry, veges and rice - mmmm. There was lots of banter while we ate. One topic of conversation was the pig that had joined us (under the table) for dinner. Luke decided that we should name the pig and the discussion turned to the choice of name. In the end it was decided that whatever name the pig responded to would be its new name. Lots of suggestions were offered to the pig but in the end the name Simon was the one that elicited a response, and so it was named.

After dinner the children came down to sing for us. It was quite a funny site. It wasnt structured at all. The parents just sort of hung back around the edges the kids gathered in the middle of some seats we were sitting on, and instead of facing us they all just sort of stood there chatting away to each other in Karen. Then someone would start singing and everyone would join in. Some of the older girls faced the front but a lot of them were still singing away to each other. At the end of the song, there wasnt a definitive end... they just sort of trailed away and then stopped, and then resumed chatting or giggling until someone started up another song.

After the show we handed out the pencils that had been donated by the country homeschool group. There were seven packets and we assumed they would be given to the school or just offered to the children to use as a group. Instead the children all formed a line and each child recieved 3 pencils. It was quite a production. Once everyone had recieved their pencils they excitedly huddled together to compare their treasures and trade their favourite colours.

It was getting late and the children were starting to yawn, so they headed off to bed, and we decided that bed sounded like a good next stop, for us also.

We found a spot on the bamboo matting that had been laid out for us on the bamboo floor and snuggled down for the night.

Thursday, September 28, 2006

It has been so hard to find time on the internet - our time has been full of so much activity that by the end of the day I am hard pressed to drag myself out to write you all my news.... and then the other night i spent an hour and half typing away madly just to have the computer go down as i tried to save.

So all my stories about our 2 day trek into the hill tribes will have to be told later.

Rest assured that more entries are on their way - I have been typing them and storing them as a draft so i can publish them chronologically.

Will publish them soon. Take care, Stephanie

Wednesday, September 20, 2006

Weary

Today I am just tired. You know the feeling - you have being going non-stop and then you pause for a moment and thats it - you're asleep standing up. LOL.

Today we had planned another action packed day, but the military coup last night through our plans up in the air. Local friends advised us to stay off the roads - so we just pottered around most of the day, doing washing and shopping for a two day trek we are taking tomorrow.

We are staying in Chaing Mai at the moment. My sister (Anne) lives in Chaing Mai, so we are staying at her house - with her three rambunctious dogs. Anne is in Australia at the moment with her husband, so we are using their truck.

It is quite the getting around on the roads in Chaing Mai. Folks dont stop at stop signs. They proceed through the red lights if there is no traffic coming and drive in the middle of two lanes - so blending in with the locals in our truck has been a hair raising experince. We were commenting that it would be good to have a big sticker on our car that said "Farang (foreigner) on board". LOL.

Yesterday we visited a local temple and were accosted by a couple of monks that were interested in interviewing us for their buddism studies. It was a great experience, and the boys sat there listening quietly for longer than i can ever remember them sitting still for!!

I practiced my broken Thai on them - much to their (and my) delight (when they actually understood me!)

We have been eating at the local food stalls for all our meals. The other morning we had chilli in our breakfast. It was a bit much for me - but Jordan thought it was great.

Anyway, must be off. I will have to fill in all the daily comings and goings, when i have Lukes journal with me - he has been keeping notes everyday - and it is a very detailed account of our trip

Cheers

Saturday, September 16, 2006

Bangkok

Wow what a day.

We arrived in BKK at 9 am - the central train station was fantastic. There were plenty of staff wandering around looking for lost souls to help out. We really let our guard down and thought this must be the way Thailand is. LOL Boy were we wrong.

Fortunately we didnt get scammed - but we came close - it seems that the streets are full of entrepreneurs willing to lie in order to make a buck. A very friendly lady told us that we should visit the floating markets - which were on today because of a public holiday. She didnt want money she told a local tuk tuk driver to take us to a certain jetty and advised us a good price for a private tour.

The tuk tuk was dirt cheap but when we arrived the market was non existent and it seems our friendly helper works for the family that hires out the boats as it was very expensive. We decided to take the ferry instead. We didnt realise at this point that it was a scam.... but then we got off the ferry near the kings palace and were accosted by another friendly Thai keen to give us the same story and organise a tuk tuk for us to travel to a local temple as the kings palace was closed today because of a Thai festival..... we decided to walk up and check it out for ourselves.

When we got to the entrance there were signs everywhere telling us that the palace is always open and that foreigners should not listen to friendly locals.

We were approached by about 10 other folks during the day with the same story. We also so lots of other foreigners being handed this story.... funny!!

We are a little more cautious now.

Friday, September 15, 2006

Penang

I have been rather internet deprived the last few days. We have been racing around seeing the sights of Penang. Penang Hill, Kek Lok Si temple (http://asiaforvisitors.com/malaysia/peninsula/penang/kekloksi/) - which was amazing, Snake temple and Feringhi beach.

But the local experiences are way more interesting than any of the tourist sites. When we were on our way to the bus the other day we went past a small shop, with an old lady deep frying stick of dough. We asked her what she was cooking and she gave us a brochure telling the story behind her business.

The story goes - There once was a great warrior - who was noble and brave and loved by the people. The wife of a govt official became jealous of the warrior and with her husband conspired to have him killed. The falsely accused him of a crime and he was convicted and executed.

The local people were outraged and saddened. They got together and decided to create two dough sticks - stuck together - to symbolise the couple. They deep fried the dough and called the food Su Kuih which means "Deep fry the evil couple"

We bought a couple of the Su Kuih and the boys delighted in " eating the evil couple". The experience even made it into Lukes journal.

Penang is much cooler than KL - temperature wise. We have been walking everywhere, and taking the local buses. much cheaper and much nicer than the taxi's.

We walked down a local alley today and almost got chased by a couple of dogs. A chinese man warned us just in time for us to turn back, just before the dogs noticed us and came charging after us barking. We have had our rabies shots - but i still dont fancy being bitten by a disease infested dog.

We had a black-out in our hostel a couple of nights ago. It was pretty scary. OUr room has no windows and i woke up in the pitch black, burning up, as the air conditioner was not working and we were in our own little sweat box.

I tried to find the door and when i couldnt i woke David. We finally found the door but then couldnt get it open. I started to panic. I thought the door must have been electronically locked. All i could think of was "what if there is a fire out there" - I started crying and freaking out. David was calm as always and rushed to get the torches. I decided to jump in the shower to cool down but then i was just panicking too much and just wanted to get that door open.

I started yanking at the handle and turning with all my might. David came over with the torch and then noticed that he had bolted the top latch before we went to bed. We opened the door and i rushed out into the stair well where there was a window. I breathed in great gasps of air. I couldnt stop crying.

The boys woke up an couldnt see what all the fuss was about.

In the morning we contemplated changing hotels but in the end decided that it was just a once off occurence and wouldnt happen again - and we wouldnt latch the bolt again.

Well last night went well, and we are on our way to Bangkok today - a 22 hour train ride that will get us there in the morning.

Penang has been fun. The chinese are so friendly, and helpful.

Looking forward to Thailand

Monday, September 11, 2006

All systems go

Today was a lot better than yesterday.

Its a wonder what a good nights sleep and a morning yoga session can do for you.

This morning we headed to the Kuala Lumpur Zoo. The first exhibits were the primates - that was depressing. Their cages are very small and smelly.. although there were some truly amazing animals - one in particular could puff out its throat in order to call out a loud territorial cry. A truly spectacular sound.

The rest of the zoo was quite reasonable. It is obvious that they are trying to improve the animal homes. We saw some wonderful animals that we have never seen in Australia - Including rhino's, racoons, some adorable baby monkeys (not sure which type) and a baby giraffe.

After the zoo we went to the Batu caves http://kuala-lumpur.ca/attractions/batucaves.html - a centre for hindu's to come and pay hommage at the annual Thaipusam festival http://www.expat.com.my/thaipusam.htm

There are 272 very steep steps up to the caves, and in 35 degree heat and 89% humidity, it was no small feat. If we keep up this pace I am sure i will come home 5 kilo's lighter. (So look out for the new me when i arrive off the plane!!)

On our way to the caves we asked our taxi driver to stop so we could get some lunch. He asked us what we would like "McDonald's, KFC?" when we said we would like local food - some rice - he exclaimed "Oh you know how to eat rice? I didnt know you people knew how to eat rice!!"

We stopped at a small Indian eating place (couldnt call it a restaurant). We ordered some food that we knew they would have to cook especially for us (as we have been advised against ready made food). As we ate we had quite an audience of Indians watching (there is obviously no shame in staring here). At one point i bit down on a chilli and started to cough and my eyes began to water - much to the delight of the inidan staff.

Local food is very cheap - but anything in a restaurant is as much as it would cost in Australia. Today we had coffee at a shopping mall - it cost more than our dinner last night.

We are slowly getting used to the taxi system also. David found it quite stressful yesterday trying to bargain a price everytime we had to go anywhere, so today it was my turn. We checked at the tourist info centre about what a good price is from our hotel to the various places around - that was very helpful - but we realised just how much we have been ripped off over the last 2 days.

The trip from the airport was double what it should have been!!

It is quite funny speaking to the locals. There are certain phrases that they use that we dont use in English and I find myself saying those things to the boys at times. "My bad" instead of sorry,
"Ok, ok, ok" instead of "dont worry" - there is also an ettiquette when eating anywhere. You are suppose to go and sit down and wait to be served - which is not so unlike Australia - but what is funny is that if you deviate from the norm the staff get a bit flustered and keep gesturing for you to go back to the table. Today i went to look at what was available to eat and asked the cook some questions. The reaction was quite funny. I am sure they were wondering what this funny western woman was doing.

Well tonight we pack up so we can head out tomorrow for Penang. We are taking the 8pm sleeper train - which we are all looking forward to. During the day we are off to the deer park and Lake gardens before we head off to the train station.

Hopefully tomorrow will be cooler - well I can hope!!

Sunday, September 10, 2006

KL

Well today has been tiring. It is hot and sticky and I have a splitting head ache.

We arrived last night at midnight (Adelaide time) - feeling very fatigued. After a hair raising taxi ride from the airport, without seat belts (I prayed the whole way!), we settled into our beds in a wonderful little airconditioned room on the 3rd floor of the Pondok Lodge - a back packer place in the "golden triangle" region of KL

This morning we got up early so we could get tickets to the patronus towers air bridge. They usually sell out by 10 am so we pushed ourselves to get up in order to not miss out. We picked up our tickets and then had a 4 hour wait until our allotted time to go up into the towers, so we went to a cultural craft centre where Luke made a batik wall hanging of a dragon fly.

I would have like to have done one too - They were truly amazing - but the heat and lack of sleep was beginning to get to me, so i just watched.

We headed back to the towers and I opted out of going up. The boys really enjoyed it and Luke got some great photo's.

For dinner tonight we braved the local food. The restaurants for foreigners are really expensive, even though this is a back packing area, so we went down to the local out door eating area. We were the only westerners there, and had lots of folks watching our every move.

We enquired about a few dishes and before we knew it they were served up to us.... we didnt realise we had ordered!! I was a bit nervous, but the food was all very hot so we just crossed our fingers and hoped that any germs were well and truly cooked to death.

A funny thing happened on the way to...

Less than 12 hours into our journey and we had our first "catastrophe". Waiting at Singapore airport for our flight to KL and we realised that we had left our waist pouch on the plane - containing our credit cards and camera.....

I wasnt sure when the plane was due to take off again and was quite panicked about getting back to the gate to check our seats.

Luke and I raced back through the terminal - atleast a kilometre long - and finally found the gate that we had exited the plane through. Luckily the plane had not taken off.

We asked a security guard for some help and he sent us off to the check in counter... we waited in line and eventually spoke to someone that reassured us that the plane would not be taking off again for a couple of hours and so they had plenty of time for a search.

I then had to wait in another line to speak to a customer service rep. who organised another person to go and look on the plane. She told us to come back in 1/2 hour.

I wasnt sure that anything was actually going to get done - but to my relief when we arrived back at the counter the smiling lady handed us our much missed pouch with everyting in tact.

She then told us to high tail it back to the departure gate as our next plane was due to leave soon and they would not hold the plane for us.

All this time DAvid and Jordan had been sweating it at the departure lounge - not knowing what was going on.

Luke and I raced up the corridor with the pouch waving over our heads - much to David's relief.

Catastrophy averted - phew

Saturday, September 09, 2006

Singapore

Well we have been on the plane for 7 hours now and have a 2 hour stop over in Singapore.

the plane ride was great. Loads of food. The hostesses just kept running up and down the isles offering us food and drinks. Having said that i am so tired. Ive put it down to the constant hum of the plane and the tv screens being perched on the seat in front - a bit to close for my eyes.

As we descended into Singapore it was amazing to see the winding rivers and lush forest of rural asia and then out of nowhere see the airport buildings appear.

Singapore airport is amazing. So commercialized. At the moment there is a voice on the p.a. announcing a Saturday raffle for a car - the tv screens are beaming us the academy awards, world federation wrestling, american football and international news.

We were just passed by three armed soldiers carrying sub-machine guns across their chest, one hand on the barrel and one near the trigger. Freaky

Luke was just commenting that he cant believe we are over seas. Maybe it will sink in once we are actually out in the real world - not the airport mega mall!

At 8pm we are off to KL so we are going off to the lounge to flick through our Lonely Planet guide and decide what our first day in Asia will have in store for us.

cheers stephanie