Monday, October 02, 2006

Journey to another world

One of the day trips we planned to take was to Mai Sai on the Mayanmar (formerly Burma) border and if the opportunity arose to cross the border as well even if just for the day. On arrival into Chiang Rai we enquired about getting to Mai Sai by local bus and planned our trip for the next day.....the Myanmar border had been closed for a number of days following the polictical coup in Thailand however we also heard on our arrival in Chiang Rai that the border had been re-opened so we decided to make the trip there as well and head across from Mai Sai to the Myanmar town of Tachilek. We did consider staying for a few days and travelling as far as you can (only about 100km's to Kengtung) inland but decided against it due to the current lack of certainty that the border will actually stay open. After having our passports stamped to exit Thailand and where right hand drive cars drive on the left hand side of the road we cross the river on foot over no mans land into the Union of Myanmar where the cars are also right hand drive but also drive on the right hand side of the road. Apparently this unfortunate combination was dictated by the literal minded General Ne Win (who took over the Burmese govent by force in 1962 and moved the country to socialism), who moved traffic from the customary left side of the road to the right when advised by an astrologer to 'move the country to the right' - sure makes for excitment at every turn!! Once we passed through the Myanmar immigration and received our visitors permits (they kept our passports and only returned them when we left the country later that day) we walked into Myanmar which was an experience in itself - like stepping back in time when you see the dreariness and obvious poverty of the people even in the border town. There have also been some heavy rains here and as a result the entire border section flooded with all houses and shops drenched in mud which they were still cleaning out today. The entry permit cost had doubled so maybe they were trying to regain some lost revenue from when the border was closed however we made it and were then confronted with the reality of an opporessed people. From the moment we entered Myanmar we were approached by people of all sorts - selling cigarettes, playing Cards and even Viagra (targetted at me - David....as if I look like I need it!!) as well as a constant stream of very sad looking beggars. Even the buildings looked drab and coulourless. It was not only that the people approached us, they followed us as we made our way through the market and the streets. We had lunch at a local hawker stall and after realising that they were Christian (Baptist Convention of Mayanmar) Stephanie felt compelled to give a small amount of money to them after we had finished our lunch (which we also paid for). After walking through the streets and markets a bit more we left Myanmar, glad for the experience but also glad to be returning to the relative happiness and pleasantness of Thailand. The sign at the roundabout just inside the Myanmar border says 'The city of the Golden Triangle' and while geographically it is true that we were close the the golden triangle where Thailand, Laos and Myanmar meet, there was very little that shone in this part of Myanmar. It did give us some questions about what is really happening in Myanmar that makes a town and people like this though and I am looking forward to reading and understanding more of this after our time away. All for now. David

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